High Tunnel Install Guide Online

Do It Yourself Disclaimer

If you have construction experience and you have tools available for new construction projects then DIY might be a good project for you to take on. Our most popular size has been the 30x96 and to give you a baseline of the time and energy required—

Our experienced crew of three men will work approximately 24 hours over a span of about three days to complete your greenhouse or hoophouse structure. However, many variables will determine the actual time required to finish the project.

Note:While they are not exactly the same, the terms greenhouse, hoophouse, hightunnel and structure may all be used interchangeably throughout this installation guide.

This how-to guide and accompanying video will document the end to end installation process of a Phocas Farms small farm (or back yard) project. In the how-to video you will see every installation step from one of our DIY 24×60 gothic style high tunnel kits from start to finish.

Tools

In this section we are going to look at the tools you will need to successfully install Phocas Farms high tunnel kits. Tools will be shown in roughly the order in which they are used in the installation. Most of the work can be completed using common carpentry and construction hand tools. You may already be familiar with all tools.

Careful review of the tool section will also help you to better understand the application and use of each tool and how it is used in the installation process.

Rebar Stakes

The first thing on our list is four #3 - (⅜ inch) rebar stakes. While these are not technically a tool, they are used to mark the four corners of the structure. These are small in diameter and sturdy for more accurate measurements. They are used together with 100 foot tape measure to properly square the layout. These can be purchased individually at most hardware stores.

150 ft Tape Measures

The second thing we are going to need is a couple tape measures longer than 100 feet. Any 30x96 kit will have a diagonal measurement greater than 100ft for squaring the structure.

Wood Grade Stakes

You will need a bundle of 3 foot or 4 foot grade stakes to build batter boards to make your structure properly placed, plumb, level, and square.These can be purchased in bundles at most hardware stores.

3 lb Drilling Hammer

The 3 pound drilling hammer for driving in the rebar corner stakes and for the grade stakes used for batter boards. It will also be used to align framing and shape structural metal parts.

1X4 - 8 ft Lumber

You will need at least 2 - 1x4 boards 10 feet long. These will be cut into smaller pieces and will be used to construct batter boards.

Beam Level

A 24 inch or 48 inch beam level is used in building batter boards and to check other leveling of the structure at different stages of the installation.

Framing Square

A framing square is used for laying out batter boards, other squaring of the structure and mark individual pieces for cutting. Also used as a marking guide for wiggle wire channel that attaches to the hipboard.

Mason String

You will need 500 ft brightly colored nylon mason string. This is used for layout guides on the ground and for guides and for leveling at different stages of the installation.

String Line Levels

String line bubble levels can be purchased in packages of two or more. It is recommended that you have a few on hand as these are used extensively in the layout process and they are easy to break or misplace.

Standard Tape Measure

Standard tape measure with a ¾ or 1 inch blade. Most common lengths are 20ft, to 25ft. Used throughout the building process for measuring framing pieces to cut.

Plumb Bob

For marking the exact location of structure corner posts after removing rebar layout markers. And later for finding the exact location where to dig footings for end frame post holes from the end bow.

Post Level

A post level is used primarily to set line posts, as well as easily check for both level and plumb of any post at the same time.

Magnetic Torpedo Level

While setting the bows a magnetic torpedo level is fixed to the bows and will free up your hands to make adjustments while setting and fastening the bows into place.

6 in C Clamps

6” C clamps are used to hold various parts together for fastening. Both in the setup of batter boards and for the actual installation of metal framing material for the hoop house.

Quick Release Clamps

6” or larger quick release clamps are used to hold various parts together for fastening. Both in the setup of batter boards and for the actual installation of metal framing material for the hoop house. Same purpose as C clamps but may be preferred in some situations.

Manual Post Driver

The post driver is for setting the line posts. Each line post is 4 ft long and should be driven into the ground 3 ft leaving 1 ft exposed. While driving in line posts be sure to keep them in-line using your string layout and plumb using a post level. Also see gas powered driver.

Hacksaw

The hacksaw is used for cutting various steel tubing and wiggle wire channel pieces to the proper length. Each piece should also be marked square for cutting by the framing square.

Crosscut Saw

The crosscut saw will only be used for building batter boards. All framing pieces and parts for your hoop house will be steel.

Water Level Ends

Water level ends for a garden hose are used to determine the level spot on 2 items that are at a distance from each other, such as posts or stakes in the ground. You can use a water level to set up batter boards, level line posts and set bow heights. A string level can also be used to accomplish this but may be a little less accurate.

Surveyor Compass

A compass can be used in the initial orientation setup and layout of your hoop house. In other words, laying out the corner stakes and setting up batter boards.

Quikrete

You will need one bag per end wall post footing. A 30 x 96 structure will have 6 end wall posts. So you will need a total of 12 bags. If you are installing a smaller greenhouse the total number of end wall posts will vary depending on the width of your greenhouse.

Concrete Mixing Pan

Used for mixing quikrete and pouring concrete mix into the end wall post hole footers.

Carpenter Pencil

For marking the long parallel lines on hipboards so wiggle wire channel will be aligned correctly and for marking various pieces to be cut to measure during the installation process.

Sharpie Marker

Black marker is used for marking tubing during different phases of the installation process.

Sawhorses

Sawhorses are used during the measuring, marking, cutting of metal framing parts. The first task where these will be used is attaching a wiggle wire channel to the hipboard.

22 ft Multi Function Ladder

You will need a step ladder that will allow you to work safely on the peak. This is 14 ft to 16 ft depending on the width of your house. You will attach purlin brackets and attach the peak purlin at each bow while standing on this ladder.

Jobsite Scissors

A good pair of sturdy jobsite scissors will be used to cut 6 mil plastic sheeting for the end pockets, side walls, and the top cover.

Work Platform

A portable work platform is not absolutely necessary but it will make the work go easier. You can use the platform to support parts while measuring, marking, and cutting. You can also stand on it for some of the higher to reach places where you may not have room for a larger ladder.

Post Hole Digger

Manual post hole digger is of course used to dig post holes for the end wall vertical supports and the internal roof supports. You may be digging 14 to 16 holes a little over 3 ft deep. A powered post hole auger may be needed if your digging may encounter roots or rocks.

Shovel

A standard garden spade shovel will assist with digging post holes and mixing concrete.

Rake

A standard garden rake will help you smooth out dirt in places after digging and backfilling. Mostly for finishing and aesthetics.

Combination Wrench Set

You’ll really only need a 5/16 and a 7/16 wrench for tightening purlin clamps but most wrenches are purchased in a set and a couple individually purchased wrenches will often cost the same or more than a full set.

Hex Shank Socket Driver

Adapt a 7/16 deep well socket to your drill or impact driver for tightening purlin clamps. 2 bolts for each purlin attachment to each bow peak means a lot of tightening.

Deep Well Socket Set

You’ll really only need a 7/16 deep well socket for tightening purlin clamps but most sockets are purchased in a set and a couple individually purchased sockets will often cost the same or more than a full set.

Rubber Mallet

Rubber mallet is not absolutely necessary. You may use this option for gently nudging pieces into place so they are level and plumb.

5/16 Nut Driver Bit

This tool will get frequent use. A 5/16 magnetic bit will be extremely beneficial because you will be drilling and driving hundreds of self tapping hex head screws into the metal structural parts.

Drill Bit Set

A drill bit set is used for pre-drilling 5/32 or 11/64 pilot holes for some of the bolts and fasteners.

Cordless Drill

A drill may be the best tool for drilling and driving hundreds of self tapping hex head screws into the metal structural parts. You will need a variable speed drill (slower rpm to start self tapping screws) then a clutch to avoid over tightening screws and stripping threads or twisting off screw heads.

Impact Driver

A cordless impact drill driver may also be used drilling and driving hundreds of self tapping hex head screws into the metal structural parts. If you use this option be sure that your tool has a clutch to set, and you practice on some scrap metal to avoid stripping screws or twisting the heads off.

Metal Cutting Blade

If you choose to use a cordless saw over a manual hacksaw, remember metal cutting blades for your reciprocating saw.

Reciprocating Saw

You will be making several cuts through 2 x 2 square metal tubing, 1-⅜ round metal tubing and various other metal pieces.

100 ft Extension Cord

Oftentimes you will be in a location without electric power. Most of the work can be completed using battery operated cordless tools. However, if you choose to use corded tools like the band saw shown below, you will need a heavy duty extension cord.

Twisted Rope

This can be any type of rope. Used in the process of installing the purlin. One end will tie to the peak of end bow and the other end to a stake driven into the ground creating a guy wire which will hold the end bow plumb while fastening top center purlin. Also used to install top plastic.

Tennis Balls

You will need something to form an anchor for plastic to pull top plastic over the structure. Tennis balls work well by holding the ball behind the plastic then tying a knot over the ball and cinching the rope tight.

Heavy Duty Wire & Bolt Cutter

This hand held tool will be used to cut wiggle wire into smaller pieces for (tacking) plastic at different locations. Also used to trim excess wiggle wire during installation.

Gas Powered Generator

If you do not have electric power within 100 ft you will of course need a gas powered generator to operate any corded plug in electric tools.

Electric Band Saw

An electric band saw is completely optional but it can help make straight cuts relatively quick. Battery powered cordless options are available.

Gas Powered Post Driver

Although this tool is optional, a gas powered post driver will save you a lot of time and energy. Consider that you will be driving two, four foot long posts 3 feet into the ground for every bow required to build your structure. Usually, you will encounter roots, rocks, or extremely hard soil. One foot should remain showing above ground so, you will be doing plenty of bending and stooping while keeping the post level.

Gas Powered Auger

End walls are constructed using 2x2 inch square stock and the bottom of each end wall support footing sits in a three foot deep post hole filled with concrete. For the best installation, you have very little variance on the location of holes for end wall footings. You can dig the holes using a hand held post hole digger but roots, rocks and other obstacles can be better overcome with this gas powered option.

Site Preparation

Hoop houses are solar-powered growing zones, so your site needs as much sunlight as possible in winter. Try to choose a spot that is exposed to the winter sun as many hours per day as possible.

The proximity of your pad may be relative to existing structures, fence lines, or by a relationship to true north which can be determined by using a surveyors compass.

The ideal grade for the foundation when building a hoop house style greenhouse is less than 5 degrees of slope over the length of a 100 feet. In other words the ground should have no more than a 5 inch drop in elevation over 100 feet.

If your slope is greater than this you will need to factor in the time, labor and possible equipment costs to bring the slope within spec. If you can, move some of your soil from the high side to backfill the low side of your location. You may need to build a small retaining wall to keep the ground’s foundation in place.

The closer your foundation is to level, before you build the hoop house or greenhouse, the better your results will be. Having the ground level will improve conditions for watering purposes, drainage, and your own comfort in the hoop house when working.

Getting Organized

Your Phocas Farms hoophouse kit will arrive by hotshot delivery on a 25 ft gooseneck trailer. Be sure to get a packing list from the driver and check every item off the packing list. This will help you to make sure that you did in fact receive all parts necessary to complete your hoophouse project.

Organize high tunnel hoophouse materials

The driver will unload and stack the parts similar to what you see here. If you have gone over the packing list, you will be able to identify the pieces and parts as they are called upon in the manufacture and the assembly process.

Layout & Squaring

Squaring is vital—During the construction process of your greenhouse project you must continually think square, level, straight and plumb. You will also be concerned with aesthetics which will determine the visual appeal of the finished structure— Take your time and do this right!

Step 1)From the highest elevation. Start by driving one rebar stake into the ground at one of the four corners. This will be stake #1.

Step 2)From stake #1measure out the length of 96 feetand drive in stake #2. The position of stake #2 is at 96 feet as well as being relative to your positioning with other structures, property lines, or compass readings. For example:The line between stake #1 and stake #2 may be parallel to a fence line, or building nearby.

Step 3)From stake #1measure out the width of 30 feetand temporarily set a rebar stake at location #3. Do your best to make a right angle as shown by the 90 degree marking in the diagram as this will get you closer to the finished layout of all 4 corners.

Step 4)From stake #2measure out the width of 30 feetand temporarily set another rebar stake at location #4. Do your best to make a right angle off of points 1, 2, 4.

Step 5)From stake #2measure diagonally 100ft 7in to stake #3.Adjust stake #3 location to the point where the side and diagonal measurements are the same as the diagram then drive the stake in. If you have 2 tape measures and two helpers, multiple steps can be completed at the same time by measuring and marking the width and diagonal together.

Step 6)From stake #1measure diagonally 100ft 7in to stake #4.Adjust stake #4 location to the point where the side and diagonal measurements are the same as the diagram then drive the stake in.

Step 7)Double check your diagonal measurements from #1 to #4 and then from #2 to #3if both diagonals measure 100ft 7inyour layout will be perfectly square and you are ready to start building batter boards.

Note:)Depending of the length and width dimensions of your kit, you must know the diagonal in order to square the structure. The illustration and steps shown here are for the 30 x 96 kit. There are other methods of squaring but the method shown above will produce the most accurate result.

Diagonal Calculator

Layout and squaring is difficult by yourself. At least one helper is recommended but two can even make it easier. Some of the previous steps for squaring can even be combined with one or two helpers.

Batter Boards

Step 1)Roll out some string line over the rebar stakes at each corner and cut 4 pieces as shown by the blue lines in the diagram. Be sure to leave string extending about 5ft beyond each corner stake. In other words, you should end up with 40ft strings for each end, and 106ft strings for each side.

Step 2)Locate the corner with the highest elevation this is where you will build the first batter board. We will call this location #1You can do this by sight, with elevation stakes, string and a string line level, with a water level, with an elevation finder app on your mobile phone, or more sophisticated surveying tools if you have access to them.

Step 3)Saw a 10ft long 1x4 in half so that you have two 5ft boards. Lay one 5ft board about 6in distance away from the rebar stake at approximately a 45 degree angle and lay the strings over the board as shown in the illustration.

Step 4)Pound in two grade stakes away from where your string will be fastened to the board and deep enough to hold the board from pulling loose and changing the string location.

Step 5) Set string line -Start at the highest elevation and fasten the batter board to the stakes using construction screws, this will allow adjustments later if needed. The top edge of the batter board should be 6 inches above the surface of the ground where your rebar stake is located and the board should be level. Fasten the string to the batter board with a screw so it passes directly over the rebar stake.

Step 6)Assuming that the highest elevation point is location #1, now move down the long side to location #2 and repeat the steps for building the batter board. Use the string line level on the line between location #1 and location #2 to determine the elevation of batter board #2 (Water level could also be used). Fasten and level batter board #2 to the grade stakes. Attach the string taught between #1 and #2 while taking care to pass the string directly over the rebar layout stake.

Step 7)Work your way around to each corner location building, leveling and adjusting the boards along with the string lines as necessary. If additional bracing is needed, the grade stakes can be pounded in at an angle and fastened to the assembly.

The level string line between locations #1 and #2 and also between locations #3 and #4 will be the reference guides for driving line posts in the next step. Make sure your batter boards are level and that the string lines pass directly over and intersect at the rebar layout stakes as shown in the diagram.

Our crews use a custom made steel pipe batter board system. However, you can build a set of iinexpensive and efficient batter boards using 3-4ft grade stakes and dimension lumber purchased at your local hardware store.

Component Details

To help you identify each component delivered in your kit each item is listed with the dimensions along with an explanation of the usage and an a photo of the application. Components are also shown in the order of use. Quantities shown are for our most popular size 30x96.

Line Posts

Size	Length	Qty
1-5/8"	4'	50

Also called ground posts. These are easy to identify because they are heavier gauge for pounding into the ground and they are pre-cut to 4 ft lengths and smaller in diameter so the bows fit over them.

Self Tapping Tek Screws

Size	Length	Qty
5/16 Hex Head	3/4	2500

Used extensively in the construction process to attach metal components. To avoid twisting off heads or stripping threads, set drill or impact driver clutch to a setting where it will not overtighten screws.Note:4 longer screws are also included to attach pocket posts to frame.

Bow legs

Size	Length	Qty
1-7/8	pre-formed	50

A complete bow is made of 3 components, two bow legs and one bow peak connector. Bows should be assembled on a flat surface.

Bow peak connector

Size	Length	Qty
1-5/8"	4'	25

Half the number of bow peaks are required to make a bow. A complete bow is made of 3 components, two bow legs and one bow peak connector. Bows should be assembled on a flat surface.

Hip Board Square Tubing

Size	Length	Qty
1-1/2"	24'	8

Hip board components are the long 1-1/2 square tubing. The finished hip board will span the entire length of the structure. Think of it as a slight overhang or eave. These long pieces are spliced together using square sleeves and screws.

Hip Board Square Sleeve

Size	Length	Qty
1-1/2"	12"	6

Hip board sleeve fits inside the hip board square tubing to join the hip board components to span the entire length of the structure.

Wire Lock C - Channel

Size	Length	Qty
1-1/2"	4'	6

Also called wire lock channel, C channel is used on the hip board, doors. end walls. and corners. with each kit. Channel shown is laying across hip boards and some has already been attached to the hipboard.

Purlin & Round Tubing

Size	Length	Qty
1-3/8"	21'	25

1 - 96' Top center purlin.

2 - 94' Sidewall curtains top rails.

2 - 95' Sidewall curtain roll up bars.

Pipe Strap 1.6

Size	Length	Qty
1.6"	n/a	48

Hold roll up bar in place. Fastens to interior vertical section of bow legs. Roll up bar will rotate freely inside straps.

Big Washer

Size	Length	Qty
Big	n/a	4

Hold side curtain roll down bar from moving out of place end to end. Also requires two screws driven half way into curtain roll up bar.

Pipe Strap 1.9

Size	Length	Qty
1.9"	n/a	54

Attach horizontal hip board to the interior vertical section of each bow leg. Also used to attach 4 pocket posts on the outside vertical bow leg.

Aluminum Purlin Bracket

Size	Length	Qty
n/a	n/a	46

Attaches to each bow on the under side of the peak connector and suspends purlin tubing running the full length of the structure. End bows require a strap in place of purlin brackets.

High Tunnel Component Aluminum Purlin Bracket

Pipe Strap 1.3

Size	Length	Qty
1.3"	n/a	2

Used on both end bow peak connectors to prevent the purlin from rubbing the end wall plastic.

High Tunnel Component End Wall Purlin Pipe Strap

Square Tubing 2"

Size	Length	Qty
2"	24'	11

Used for end wall vertical framing and door opening framing 24 feet pcs, two outside most uprights are cut from one full piece of steel tubing at 12 feet each the balance uses a full stick with excess left over.

High Tunnel Component End Wall Square Tubing

Hurricane Straps

Size	Length	Qty
2"	n/a	12

Hurricane strap connects the end wall framing 2" tubing to the end wall bow. Your high tunnel kit will include one hurricane strap for each 2" end wall vertical framing tube.

Flat Bar Connector 9"

Size	Length	Qty
1-3/4"	9"	16-20

Used to reinforce hurricane connectors and connect inside horizontal door opening footer and or header. Some kits may substitute (9" straps) for (L brackets) to make horizontal door header connections to 2" square vertical framing tubes.

High Tunnel Component Flat Straps For end wall Connections

L Bracket Connector

Size	Length	Qty
2"	n/a	4

Option to make horizontal door header connections to 2" square vertical framing tubes. Kits may ship with L bracket connectors or 9" flat bar connectors.

Doors

Size	Length	Qty
48"x80"	n/a	2

Pre-Fabricated 48" wide welded steel doors. Doors are typically placed in the center of the end wall but positioning to one side or the other is possible by re-positioning end wall framing vertical tubes. Door header and door footer tubing will need to be cut at 48-1/4" leaving room to adjust right to left. Ideally, forming a 1/8" uniform gap around the entire door.

High Tunnel Component Pre-Fabricated Welded Steel Doors

Hinges

Size	Length	Qty
n/a	n/a	4

Door hinges can be installed between 2" - 6" from the top and bottom of the door frame. Hinges can be mounted internally or externally depending on which way the doors will swing, inward or outward.

Latches

Size	Length	Qty
n/a	n/a	2

Door latch assemblies are attached using hex tek screws.Note:Exterior door handles will be removed and re-installed after the plastic door covering has been installed.

Plastic Film 6mil Small Roll

Size	Length	Qty
14'	100'	1

Used to cover pockets at each side wall end and to cover end walls and doors. The first 2 cuts off of the roll will be 10 ft. Each 10 x 14ft piece will be cut in half making two - 10 x 7 pieces to cover all four side wall end pockets. The remainder will be used to cover end walls and doors. While Installing, be aware of the inside and outside marking on the plastic.

High Tunnel Component Small Roll 6mil plastic

Wiggle Wire

Size	Length	Qty
n/a	6'	150

Fasten film holding it in the film channel. Cut some smaller pieces called tacks and used to hold film in place while installing full wiggle wire pieces. First use will be to cover end walls and doors, followed by fastening interior side of side wall end pockets.

Plastic Film 6mil Large Roll

Size	Length	Qty
48'	100'	1

Used to cover roof and side wall roll up curtains. Single piece of material is pulled leaving 2-6 feet excess at each end. After pulling the material over the top adjust so the single sheet will cover the top and each side leaving 12-24 inches longer than is required to cover both sides. Do not trim excess yet.

High Tunnel Component Plastic Film to Cover Roof and Side Curtains

Fabric Clips

Size	Length	Qty
1-3/8"	4"	225

Attaches ribbon rope to side curtain roll up bar and attaches plastic film to top side curtain bar. Place clips about every 16 inches on top curtain bar.

Pocket Posts

1-7/8	Length	Qty
n/a	6'	4

Used to complete the wall end pockets. Pounded in late in the overall installation process these posts are exterior of any optional bottom boards and roof wiggle wire channel and parallel to bow leg. End pocket plastic has already been cut and installed interior.Note:4 long hex screws are included to attach pocket posts to channel.

Ribbon Rope

Size	Length	Qty
3/4	300	1

Wraps around side curtain roll up bar on one end forming a spiral and attaches with a single knot to the side curtain top rail to raise and lower side curtain located on the interior side of the curtain. Also used on the exterior of the structure to form a zig zag pattern holding the exterior side of the side curtain from blowing out or up.Note:Small washers are included to help keep zig zag rope in place.

Hand Cranks

Size	Length	Qty
1-1/2	n/a	2

Pre-fabricated hand cranks install into the side curtain roll up bar that extends 6 inches outside of structure. The opposite end of the side curtain roll up bar will be 1 ft short of the full length of the structure and the two big washers will prevent the bar from sliding end to end when curtain is raised or lowered.

High Tunnel Component Side Curtain Hand Cranks

Set line posts

Start off by locating all of the 1-5/8 line posts. These are heavy wall round tubing pieces that are 4ft long and lay them on the ground next to your layout about 4ft apart. Don't confuse these with the 4 slightly larger pocket posts we will be working with later.

High Tunnel Installation Lay Out Line Posts

High Tunnel Installation Install Side 1 Line Posts

Side 1 - The string line between your batter boards should already be in place. From your first corner stake stretch out a tape measure the length of the structure and drive in a ground post every 4ft from center to center leaving approximately 12 inches above ground. Be sure to continually level each post and keep in-line using batter board string line as the guide.

Side 2 - Before driving in the first post, adjust the batter board string line for side 2 closer or further away and parallel to side #1 string line according to bow leg to bow leg measurement if necessary. If any adjustments are made, be sure to also check your diagonals again. Continue pounding in posts making sure to level each post using a post level and keep in line with your batter board string line guide.

High Tunnel Installation Install Side 2 Line Posts

Tips for setting line posts -Assemble one complete bow and lay it out on a flat surface. Measure the span from center to center on the bottom of the legs. Transfer this measurement from the #1 corner stake to the #3 corner stake and from the #2 stake to the #4 stake and set parallel side wall #2 string according thebatter board diagram.

Do not be overly concerned about leaving exactly 12 inches out of the ground or mushrooming the top of line posts as line posts can later be cut off allowing bow legs to easily slip over the line posts.See step 5 using batter board string line

Assemble bows

Step 1) Lay out two bow legs and one bow peak connector on a flat surface. Make sure the black bend marks on the bow connectors are facing up. If you are working alone fit the peak connector onto one leg first then fit the remaining bow leg onto the peak connector as shown.

High Tunnel HoopHouse Installation Lay Out Bows

High Tunnel HoopHouse Installation Assemble Bow Peak

Step 2) At each connection between bow leg and bow peak connector, drive in three self tapping screws in a triangle pattern (see next image) on what will be the side and interior of the tubing. Repeat step 1 and 2 until all bows have been assembled. See next picture for screw pattern example.

Make sure that screw heads will not be on the exterior facing part of the bow. Later in the installation, plastic must slide over the bow peak and bow side legs without contacting any screw head potentially damaging the plastic film.

Leveling bows(option 1) - See next section for (option 2).

This method works best if you are working alone. Using the level batter board string line to set level bow height for one side. At the end of your structure with the highest elevation measure the distance from the ground to your batter board string line directly over the corner post. Whatever this measurement is, transfer the measurement from the bottom foot of the bow leg and mark this distance on the bow leg with a sharpie. Marks with the same measurement should be made to each of the bow legs on the same side. Repeat this process for the other side.

Position Bows on Ground Posts

1) Stand all bow legs up by sliding them over the line posts. To help keep the structure uniform, stand the bows up with the hex heads near the peak facing toward the same end.

2) After the bows are all in place. Locate the fabrication bend mark on each bow then measure 6 inches down the vertical part of the leg and make a new mark. These new marks help you level and position the hip board in the next step. Always plumb end bow legs before fastening.

3) Start at the highest elevation corner and drive a hex head screw through the bow leg into the line post securing the first corner post. Then work your way around to each end corner post securing it to the line post. String line can be stretched, leveled and wrapped around the four corner end posts at the new marks to help you level each bow leg.

4) After the four corner posts of the bow assemblies have been secured to the line posts, You can work your way down each side. When the mark is raised or lowered to the level string line, drive a hex head screw through the bow leg securing it to the line post.

Mark bows for leveling(option 2).

This method works best with two people. Run a level string line from end bow leg to end bow leg about eye level on the same side. This same string line can also serve as a guide for fastening and leveling the hip board. Factory bend marks are located on each bow leg bend. Use this park as a reference and make a new mark 6 inches down the straight part of the bow leg. This new mark on each bow leg can be used to match up with the leveled string line stretched from end post to end post. Repeat this process for the other side.

Install hip boards

1) Prepare all 1-1/2" hipboard tube sections by marking a line 3/4 inch from the edge and mark the entire length of the hipboard tube to for a guide to attach Wire Lock C Channel.

2) Use the line as a guide attach the Wire Lock C channel to the hipboard. Drive in screws through the C channel into the hipboard tubing. Spacing between the screws should be approximately 12 inches. This becomes a hipboard assembly.

3) Mark each hip board square sleeve at the 6 inch mark so that you know how far to push the splicing sleeve into the hipboard. Splicing sleeves are used to join two hipboard assemblies.

4) Push the hipboard sleeve into the end of hipboard assembly tubing at the end where you will be connecting the next hipboard tubing. You can drive screws through the top of the hipboard assembly into the hipboard sleeve. See the next image for hipboard assembly orientation.

5) Notice the orientation of the hipboard and C channel assembly. Notice also how the string line is used as a guide for installing the remaining hipboard assemblies. And notice how the 1.9 pipe strap is used on the end post and later bent in and fastened.

6) 1.9 pipe straps are used from the interior side of the structure to attach hipboard assemblies to the vertical leg of each bow. Install one hipboard assembly at a time by placing the strap over the bow leg and driving only 2 hex head screws into the hipboard assembly. Don't drive a screw into the bow leg through the pre-drilled hole in the strap until after the next step.

7) Plumb each leg and adjust hipboard assembly up or down then drive one hex head screw through the pre-drilled strap hole into the bow leg. Work your way down from bow leg to bow leg. Insert a hip board sleeve to join hipboards and drive screws through top of the hipboard into the splicing sleeve.

Hip board install tips -

Always be sure to plumb each bow leg using a magnetic torpedo level and level hipboard using the string line fastened from end post to end post as a guide. It is also a good idea to sight down the for level and straightness as this will affect the overall aesthetics of your project.

Install the purlin

1) Tie an anchor rope to the peak of one end bow and the other end to a wooden stake driven into the ground about 20 ft away from the end bow. This will hold the end bow in place while you align and attach the purlin using straps. Sight across the end bow then tie off the anchor rope when the bow is vertical aligned.

2) At the opposite end bow from the one you have just anchored with rope, attach the non-swedged end of 21'x1-3/8" purlin tubing in the center of the peak using a 1.3 pipe strap as shown. Don't let tubing extend too far allowing damage to end wall plastic. Attach mason line as shown. Tie other end of the mason line to the anchored end bow as a guide to keep the purlin straight.

3) Be sure that the purlin tubing does not extend beyond the edge of the end wall tubing surface then drive a tek screw through the pre-drilled hole in the strap into the purlin tubing.

4) Hang the first purlin tube on bows 2, 3, 4 etc. Use the mason string as a guide and assemble the aluminum purlin brackets loosely at this time allowing the purlin tube to slide freely from end to end.

5) Continue working your way to the other end by pushing the swedged end of the next purlin tube into the non-swedged end of the previous tube, then drive two tek screws on the bottom edge away from the side where plastic will be installed.

6) Assemble loosely the aluminum purlin brackets and use the mason string as a guide for keeping the purlin straight.

7) We are now at the anchored end of the structure. Ask your assistant to sight across the opposite end bow. Use the excess purlin to pull the opposite end bow vertically straight. If necessary use a "C" clamp to hold the purlin while you drive a tek screw through the pre-drilled hole in the tubing clamp just as you did at the other end. If pushing the purlin is required to bring the opposite end bow vertically straight, you can use a rope and pull the opposite end bow peak to slightly bend the bow away from the structure before pulling it back straight.

8) You will need an assistant to align the bow peaks. Sighting across each bow, your assistant can let you know where to tighten each aluminum purlin bracket.

9) Tighten the purlin bracket bolts using a 7/16" deep well socket and drive in a tek screw through the aluminum bracket into the bow.

10) Step back and enjoy your work. You just installed the purlin the same way the pro's do it. With the help of your assistant, you also sighted each and every bow vertically straight for a visually appealing structure.

Install Purlin tips -

Follow the procedure in step 7 to set the vertical straightness of both end bows then secure both end bows before continuing to align and secure the remaining bows.

This step will have a big impact on the visual appeal of your overall structure. Sighting across the bows will yield surprisingly accurate results. Using a string line to guide your purlin will make your installation look professional.

Install the doors

1) The most common installation is in the center but you can locate doors either left or right of center. Doors can swing inward or outward depending on your preference. Just be sure that if the doors are to swing inward that your fully open door will clear the plastic roofing material. The remainder of these instructions will assume that you will be installing doors on each end in the center of the end wall.

2) Drop a plumb bob from the center of the peak to find and mark center on the ground directly beneath the batter board string stretching between the end bow legs. Then measure out from the center 24 inches on each side and mark where to dig post holes.

3) Dig the two post holes for end wall door supports which should be 3 ft. deep and 48-1/8" apart from center to center as well as centered below the batter board string line.

4) Measure from the bottom of your post hole to the end bow roof and cut a piece of 2" end wall square tubing 4" shorter than this measurement for one of end wall the door supports.

5) Attach a Hurricane strap to the end wall door support you just measured and cut and fasten it to the end bow roof support using only the hurricane strap for now. Repeat this process for the other door support on this end wall. Take care to measure 48-1/8" between upright posts before securing. You can use the door header shown in step 8 as a guide or spacer.

6) Attach the hurricane strap and leave the 9" flat strap support off for now so the post can easily be adjusted. After concrete has been poured into the post holes you can attach the 9" flat straps. The post will now hang from the roof and dangle in the post hole.

7) Use a post level or torpedo level to be sure the end wall door support is plumb. After the post is plumb, kick some dirt or rocks into the hole to hold the end wall door support in place before pouring concrete.

Cut header and sill pieces from square tubing

8) Measure and cut two pieces of 2" end wall square tubing 48-18" long. If supplied, attach L bracket to the header, if L brackets are not included use 9" flat straps as shown. These pieces are the door support header and door sill.

9) Mix concrete in concrete mixing pan and pour into the hole with the end wall door support making sure that the end wall door support remains plumb. Use the door sill tubing used as a spacer to maintain proper door opening width when setting the door sill tubing in concrete.

10) Doors in our example here have been installed off center but framing the door opening is the same regardless of where doors are placed. The following images show details of the complete door assembly.

11) Use a big washer or something similar in width for spacer.

12) Set the door frame on a 1/8" spacer sitting on the door sill.

13) Use a quick release clamp on the hinged side to secure the door frame to the end wall door support. Attach hinge to end wall door support using Tek screws.

14) After bottom hinge has been secured, Use a spacer as a guide for attaching the door header to

15) Attach the door header to the end wall door support tubing using 9 in. flat straps. If your kit includes L-brackets this is where you will use the L bracket on top of the header and fasten to the end wall door support using Tek screws.

16) Attach the interior door latch and catch using Tek screws.

17) Attach the exterior door latch using Tex screws. Note that you will later remove the exterior door latch in order to install plastic.

Install Doors tips -

Always be sure to check all components for level and plumb. Doors can optionally be installed on either side of center.

Assemble end walls

1) After the doors have been installed. Measure the distance between the door support tube and the vertical leg of the bow and divide by the number of end wall posts you will be installing in order to calculate the spacing between end wall posts. For a 30 ft. wide structure this will be 2 posts on each side of the door. If you have a house smaller than 20 ft. you only need to dig the holes for the door.

2) Repeat the process of measuring, digging, cutting, and leveling as you did to set the door support posts.

3) This step should be completed with an assistant. Working alone on this step is not impossible but it is very difficult.

4) It is usually best to attach the hurricane strap, then set the post in concrete before adding the 9 in. flat strap.

5) Review the more detailed steps shown in door installation section.

Assemble end walls tips -

In this step you will complete framing the end walls of your structure. Even spacing and straightness (plumb) will improve the overall aesthetics.

Install wire lock channel

1) Place the first section of wire lock channel with the end butted up against the top of the hipboard and behind the channel on the hipboard as shown. Drive the first Tek screw through the channel into the end bow right where you see our technician pointing.

2) Roof plastic will be held in place by wiggle wire worked in to the hipboard channel and the channel facing upward and fastened over the top of the end bow roof.

3) Continue driving in Tek screws about 12 in apart as you move up and over the end bow roof peak. Move to the hipboard on the other eide of the end bow and repeat step 1 working your way back toward the peak. Working upward toward the peak from hipboard to hipboard will make it easier to measure and fill the gap between the channels with one straight piece of channel.

4) Fasten end wall channel to the end bow vertical wall round tubing as shown in the photo. Be sure to use a hammer and bend the pointed edges of the channel inward to avoid puncturing the end wall plastic.

5) Install channel on all outward facing 2 inch end wall square tubing. Fasten channel in the center of the 2 inch tubing on end wall tubing - Except the door support tubing where the edge of the channel is fastened flush with the edge of the door support tubing on the edge where the door is installed.

6) Visual example of how to fasten the channel around the bottom of the door and vertical door support tubing. Notice the relation of channel installed on the door itself.

7) Door channel is installed flush with the innermost edge of the door tubing. Pound the sharp edges of the door channel around the door handle inward to avoid puncturing the plastic when it is installed.

8) Visual example of how to fasten the channel around the top of the door and vertical door support tubing. Notice the relation of channel installed on the door itself.

9) End wall vertical support tubing other than the door support tubing gets wiggle wire channel installed in the center of the tubing. Pound in the sharp edges at the top of the tubing to avoid puncturing plastic.

Install wire lock channel tips -

Wire lock channel, or wiggle wire channel has already been installed on the hipboard. The only other wire lock to secure the roof will be installed from the hipboard and run up and over the top of each end bow. The rest of the channel will be installed on the end walls and doors.

Bend in all sharp edges where channel ends and plastic will cover.

INSTALL SIDEWALL ROLL UP

1) Fastens 1.6 pipe straps to the interior vertical section of bow legs on every bow leg of the structure except the back end wall. Roll up bar rotates freely inside straps.

2) Slide sections of 1-3/8 tubing through pipe straps the full length of the structure. Do not cut the rollup bar just yet.

3) Use 2 Tek screws to fasten sections of the roll up bar together.

4) Measure 12 inches and slide the sidewall rollup bar toward the front of the greenhouse. This will be the permanent position of the roll up bar. The front end will extend beyond the end wall and this excess will be trimmed in a later step. Slide 2 big washers over this end of the roll up bar.

5) From the previous step slide the two big washers to the first strap which will be 4 ft. from the back wall. Remove the pipe strap then re-install as shown in the picture or slide the roll-up tube toward the front, install the washers then return the roll up bar to the 1 foot offset as shown in step 4.

6) Assemble side curtain top bar and cut to a length that is 2 feet short of the length of your overall structure. Lay it on the ground outside of the structure and tie. Cut flat rope pieces 7 foot long. Tie flat rope to side curtain top bar on the ground outside of the bow legs.

7) Wrap the other end of the flat rope around the sidewall rollup bar and secure it with a fabric clip. This end will be re-adjusted when we actually install the side curtains. Note the direction of the wrapping. This photo was taken from the inside of the hoophouse.

8) The side curtain top bar will slide down and up in the end wall pockets so be sure that the ends are 1 foot in from the end while you work your way down each side tying flat rope to the side curtain top bar that is laying on the ground and wrapping the flat rope around the sidewall rollup bar as shown in the picture. The first 4 foot section is reserved for sidewall pockets so don't install flat rope in this section.

Side wall rollup tips -

The side curtain has a top bar to hold the side wall plastic in place. Turning the crank will operate the roll-dow/ roll-up mechanism and lower the side wall to provide ventilation. In a standard installation, the bottom of the plastic curtain will hang freely and be cut about 18 inches longer than the the point where side wall posts meet the ground as shown instep 16of side curtain install.

The back end wall of the structure is the opposite end of where the side wall roll up/down cranks will installed. The first 4 foot section of every corner will be the sidewall pocket. Don't install flat rope in the pocket sections.

Note:Our example here has the optional bottom board which will not be included with the most basic kit.

Install Corner Pockets

1) The first 2 cuts off of the smallest roll of plastic will be 10 ft. long. Each 10 long x 14ft wide piece will then be cut in half making two - 10ft x 7ft pieces to cover the four corner pockets. While Installing, be aware of the inside and outside marking on the plastic.

2) Cut some wiggle wire into smaller pieces. These short pieces will be used to tack or temporarily hold panels of plastic in the wiggle wire channel while stretching, tightening, or adjusting in to place.

3) Attach one or more pieces of wiggle wire channel to the interior of the first vertical sidewall bow leg away from the end wall. Drive Tek screws through the channel into the bow leg spaced about 12 inches apart.

4) Detailed view of interior corner pocket wiggle wire channel positioning.

5) Using one small piece of wiggle wire tack plastic in the interior top of the channel you just installed.

6) Pull plastic tight and use a small piece of wiggle wire to tack plastic into the previously installed end wall channel.

7) Plastic tacked in the two previous steps will begin to form the corner pocket. Stretch the 10x7 ft. plastic around the end wall.

8) Pull plastic around the outside as shown and put a tack in the hipboard channel to temporarily hold the plastic until the outside corner pocket post and channel has been installed.

9) Go ahead and install the full length wiggle wire in the interior corner pocket channel and the end wall channel. This is a wider angle interior view shows positioning of plastic sheet forming the corner pocket.

10) Wider angle exterior view shows positioning of the 10x7 ft. plastic sheet forming the corner pocket.

11) Here we are showing (in advance) the final step for installing corner pockets. Notice that this step is actually completed after the roof and sidewall plastic has been installed. Drive in a pocket post parallel to the vertical sidewall post. Notice that the wiggle wire tack that had been set in the hipboard channel has been removed and corner pocket plastic has been pulled back.

12) Showing (in advance) exterior pocket post completely installed. Notice the corner pocket plastic secured in the channel attached to the pocket post as well as being secured to the hipboard channel as well.

Install corner pocket tips -

When installing any plastic be sure and be aware of the inside and outside as marked on the plastic. Wiggle wire tacks can remain in place and full length wiggle wire pieces can be installed right over the top of the smaller tack pieces. Wiggle wire and plastic can sometimes be installed 3 layers deep in the same channel.

The last step of the corner pocket installation takes place after the roof plastic has been installed. This sequence makes it much easier to install the roof plastic without obstructions.

Install end wall film

High Tunnel HoopHouse Install Corner endwall-film

1) Using the small roll of plastic, pull off and cut a piece 3 ft longer than the width of your hoophouse. When you unfold the piece it will be 14 feet tall and 33 feet wide if you are installing a 30x96 high tunnel.

2) Cut some wiggle wire into smaller pieces. These short pieces will be used to tack or temporarily hold panels of plastic in the wiggle wire channel while stretching, tightening, or adjusting in to place.

3) Double check the interior back end of the sidewall rollup bar to be sure it has not been moved and that it still measures 12 inches away from the back end wall. Measure and cut off the excess rollup bar leaving 6 inches protruding beyond the front end wall. After you have made the cut, push the sidewall rollup bar back into the interior of the structure so that it does not interfere with installation of end wall plastic.

4) Remove the outside door handle and set it aside for re-attachment after the end wall plastic has been installed.

5) Place the plastic on the ground in front of the end wall you will be covering and begin unfolding. Notice the fold marks in the plastic as these can be used to level the plastic visually in the next steps.

6) While the plastic is still on the ground, measure and mark at the top with a sharpie the exact center of your plastic. The mark will help you tack the plastic in place using wiggle wire at the peak — Notice that the protruding 6 inch side curtain roll up bars have been temporarily pushed back into the greenhouse to allow installation of the end wall plastic.

7) Pull the plastic in to place and temporarily fasten to the hipboard using wiggle wire tack pieces. Use the lines in the plastic as a guide to keep the plastic level.

8) Using full pieces of wiggle wire fasten the roof edges working your way down the roofline on both sides working out any wrinkles.

9) End wall film installation is much easier and you will most likely end up with a better end result if you have an assistant for this part of the installation.

10) Work your way down the end wall fastening the plastic with wiggle wire in the channel installed on the end wall.

11) Work out wrinkles as you move your way down. Keep in mind that our example installation shows the optional bottom board being installed. If you are installing a basic kit then the plastic will meet the ground and then extend about a foot out from the edge of the structure. The excess plastic can be covered with dirt or rock to secure it in place.

12) Cut excess wiggle wire as you move down the end wall. The door is covered with the same plastic and secured with wiggle wire. After all wiggle wire has been installed on the end wall and door then cut the plastic so the door can open.

13) Re-attach the exterior door handle to the door.

14) Make a small cut in the end wall plastic and slide the side wall rollup bar back out so that it extends 6 inches outside the greenhouse again.

15) Trim the excess plastic around the roof edge leaving about 6 inches and trim the bottom leaving 12 inches or more that can be covered with dirt or rocks.

Install top plastic

High Tunnel HoopHouse Install Corner top-plastic

1) Use the large roll and pull enough plastic to cover the entire top of your hoophouse leaving about 2-1/2 feet extra on each end to grab onto and make adjustments. The top plastic attaches using wiggle wire along the roof line of the end walls and to the hipboard.

2) After the plastic is rolled out and cut to length, throw three ropes over the top. Each rope must be long enough to tie onto the plastic and then be pulled from the opposite side. Make a ball in the plastic to tie each of the three ropes around. You can use a tennis ball, golf ball, or some other object that will not damage the plastic on the back side to help make the rope anchor to the plastic.

3) Make a rope anchor to plastic at each end and in the middle. Make an inspection for any sharp edges or obstacles that may prevent you from pulling the plastic over the top.

4) Send the assistant who will be pulling the middle over to the other side and begin pulling as the other two help work the plastic up and over the top. Be careful to keep on the watch and avoid dragging the plastic over any sharp objects or by pulling extremely hard on plastic that may be hung up on something.

5) All three participants are now working together pulling evenly on the connected ropes to hoist the plastic into place for getting the plastic positioned and fastened.

6) After successfully pulling the plastic over the top of the structure, roll the edges for a better grip and pull to align the fold lines with roof lines hipboard. Focus on making the structure aesthetically appealing.

7) Use full pieces of wiggle wire and start fastening the top into place starting at the peak on one end then work your way down to the side wall pulling out any wrinkles as you go. After finishing one roof edge, move to the other end pull the plastic tight from end to end while fastening with wiggle wire..

8) After all roof ridges have been fastened, start pulling, tightening, and fastening the roof plastic to the hipboards with wiggle wire. Repeat for other side.

9) Wiggle wire being installed. Notice the unfinished corner pocket plastic attached to the end wall corner post.

10) Detail showing how to install wiggle wire.

11) Trim the excess plastic off of the roof edge plastic leaving 4-6 inches remaining. DO NOT cut the sidewall curtain plastic away from the roof plastic.

Install top plastic tips -

Installing the top plastic will require two assistants and should be attempted on a day with little wind. Focus on taking some time and continually adjust roof plastic so it will be even and look nice. DO NOT cut the sidewall curtain plastic away from the roof plastic.

Install side curtains

High Tunnel HoopHouse Install Corner side-curtains

1) If you have not already created an opening for the rollup bar to pass through the end wall plastic, do so now to complete the side curtain installation.

2) Slide the side wall rollup bar out so that it extends 6 inches outside the greenhouse end wall.

3) Drive Tek screws about half way in to the rollup bar next to the big washers as shown in the picture. This will hold the rollup bar from sliding toward the front or back of the structure while cranking the sidewall up or down.

4) Overview showing the placement of big washers and back end of the hoophouse where the rollup bar is 1 foot away from the end wall plastic.

5) Install the crank handles into the sidewall rollup bar and drive in a Tek screw to allow for actual use of the crank.

6) Use the crank and roll up until the crank stops turning. Put a little pressure on the crank and hold it in place.

7) Ask your assistant to go inside the hoophouse and drive in a temporary set screw through a pipe clamp into the rollup bar to lock it in place while you make some adjustments.

8) Go inside and look at the side curtain top bar. In places the side curtain top bar will be touching the hipboard. In places where the side curtain top bar is hanging lower and not touching the hipboard, hold the curtain top bar up against the hipboard and twist on the flat rope to snug it up.

9) After re-adjusting the flat ropes to tighten them up, the curtain top bar should be touching the hipboard the entire length of the side wall.

10) Remove the temporary set screw that your assistant put in earlier. This will allow the rollup bar to turn freely. Twist the rollup bar to drop the side curtain bar 4 inches as shown in the picture. The side curtain bar should now be parallel to the hipboard the entire length of the side wall.

11) Re-install the temporary set screw to keep the rollup bar and the side curtain top bar in place.

12) Go outside of the hoophouse and push fabric clips about 18 inches apart over the side curtain and on to the side curtain top bar the full length of the sidebar. The side curtain is still part for the plastic covering the roof. Now you can cut the plastic between the hipboard and the side curtain top bar cutting the full length of the side curtain and separating the curtain from the roof.

13) The side curtain is the same length as the side curtain top bar and cut from the same piece of plastic as the roof. Cut from the ground up, then turn scissors 90 degrees at the side curtain top bar and cut parallel to the hipboard. Notice how the corner pocket plastic has been pulled back allowing for the side curtain cuts to be made.

14) Trim the excess plastic at the bottom leaving about 18 inches to be covered by dirt or rocks. Please note that our example installation does include the bottom board option with channel and wiggle wire fastening the plastic at the bottom as well.

15) Roll the side curtain up as high as it will go then remove the screw and re-position the crank in the same position as you see here. Add a Tek screw tie off point on the endwall support and create a flat rope strap to hold the sidewall curtain crank as shown here.

16) Finished vie from the inside looking out. Showing how the corner pocket contains the side curtain and top bar. Notice the big washers with screws as stops to prevent the rollup bar from sliding end to end.

Install side curtains tips -

Carefully study each image and brief instruction text. Understand how the roof plastic and side curtain are created from the same piece of plastic.

FINISH CORNER POCKETS.

1) Drive in a pocket post parallel to the vertical sidewall post.

2) Secure the outside corner pocket post to the hipboard using 1.9 pipe strap and long screws.

3) Fasten wiggle wire channel on the outside edge of the corner pocket post from the ground to the pipe strap as shown. Bend in the sharp corners of the channel. Notice how the roof plastic is cut from the far end and parallel to the hipboard then turn down at the side curtain top bar.

4) Pull the loose end of the pocket plastic to the pocket post. Attach the pocket plastic to the hipboard and then to the vertical pocket post channel.

5) Close up view of pocket plastic fastened to the hipboard and pocket post.

6) Trim away excess plastic. This is a finish cut.

7) Outside view of finished corner pocket. Notice how the side curtain rests in the pocket.

Finish corner pockets -

Corner pockets contain the ends of the side wall curtain and provide a weather resistant pocket to lower the side curtain for ventilation.

Install zig zag sidewall retainer

High Tunnel HoopHouse Install Corner zig-zag

1) Start by driving a tek screw in to the side of the pocket post. Tie flat rope to this screw.

2) From the pocket post, move down every other bow leg and drive a tex screw into the hipboard. Then drive a tek screw through the plastic into every other bow leg near the ground.

3) Close up view of tek screw in hipboard location.

4) Close up of tek screw in bottom of bow leg. Note that our example installation includes the optional bottom board with a tek screw positioned over the bow leg where the screw would go without this option.

5) Lace the flat rope you attached to the pocket post in a zig zag pattern and lightly tighten the screw with a washer to hold the flat rope in place.

6) Work your way to the opposite end from where you started, Drive a screw into the pocket post at the other end and tie off the rope and tighten the tek screw over the flat rope. You are finished. Go grow something!

Install zig zag sidewall retainer tips -

Zig zag sidewall retainer prevents the side curtain from blowing outward and supports the side curtain top bar from bowing out in the center part of the hoophouse.

High Tunnel Install Guide

Variables

Options Ordered

Available Helpers

Weather Conditions